Days 6–8: Moçâmedes (Namibe) – Dunes, Beaches, and Desert

Day 6: Beach Day and Desert Hikes

Relax at Praia Amélia or explore Giraul Estuary — a hidden spot where farmlands meet river and desert.

Day 7: Drive to Tombua via Colinas canyon and Lagoa dos Arcos

Continue south for 200 km to the fishing town of Tombua, near the Namib Desert and Iona National Park. First drive to Colinas Canyon and allow yourself a 2-3 hours to really enjoy this natural marvel. Time permiting, visit Lagoa dos Arcos for natural lakes in dramatic rock formations on the way.

Day 8:

Visit shipwrecks and deserted beaches neat Tombua. Stay at Bar Virei, a simple but reliable guesthouse.

Days 9–10: Return to Luanda via Lubango

Day 9: Drive Back to Lubango

Return north on the same 200 km route (~3–4 hours) and rest in Lubango. On the way stop at Mangueiras, where you will meet many Mukubal men and women. This is popular bus stop on the main road and trible people here sell firewood, fuits and milk. It is easy to see them, however the setting is sadly commercial and the surrounding settlement is a sad sight of tribal people getting attached to civilisation.

Day 10: Fly to Luanda

Take a domestic flight back to Luanda (1.5 hours). Overnight near the city center or Ilha de Luanda.

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Location: How to Reach Calandula Falls

Calandula is located about 360 km east of Luanda, Angola’s capital city. The journey by car takes around 6–8 hours, depending on road conditions and weather. Much of the route follows paved roads, but often potholed. The last stretch near the falls can be particulary challenging, especially on its eastern side and during or after heavy rains.

You can reach Calandula Waterfals in several ways:

• By Car (Recommended): Renting a vehicle is the best option for flexibility. A high-clearance 2WD is enough in dry season. 4x4 is safer, if you're venturing off the main routes.
• By Public Transport: Buses and minibuses from Luanda to Malanje are available. Get off at Cacuso. From there, local transport or hitchhiking may get you to the Calandula town and western banks of Calandula falls. This is slower and requires patience. To reach eastern banks, you will need a taxi or some kind of private transport.
• By Tour (Not recomended): Most organized tours are overpriced or focused on expats. Independent travel is both cheaper and more rewarding.

We have detailed section of how to rent a car and drive to Calandula on budget included in our detailed guidebook here: Angola travel guide book. Did you know there are 4 viewpoints to see the Calandula falls? See the guidebook for details.

Where to Stay Near Calandula Falls

Accommodation near the falls is limited but sufficient for most travelers. Your two main choices are:

1. Pousada Calandula (East Side)

Pousada is located close to the main viewpoint and offers stunning views from rooms and terrace, however it is really overpriced. Recommended if you're not on a tight budget and want comfort and location. Camping is also possible on Pousada teritory, but is also overpriced. If you're traveling with camping gear and 4wd vehicle, there is a pretty place to camp some 500m nearby. See the giudebook for details.

2. Lodging in Calandula Town (West Side)

Offers 3-4 budget-friendly options, about 5 from the falls. Count on 25€ - 50€ per double room. We have stayed in Hotel Numina, the only one with swimming pool and paid €25 per double room.

When to Visit Calandula Falls

The best time to see Calandula Falls in full force is during or just after the rainy season, which runs from October to April. At this time, the Lucala River swells and the volume of water cascading over the cliffs is simply breathtaking. However, even in the dry season, the falls retain their beauty. Water levels are lower, but mist and scenic views still abound. Bonus: roads are easier to navigate, and bugs (especially mosquitoes) are fewer.

Why Calandula Falls Is a Must-See

Here’s why this site deserves its place on any list of famous waterfalls in Africa:

1. Size & Power: At over 400 meters wide and 105 meters tall, Calandula rivals much more famous falls across the continent.
2. No Crowds: You can experience the wonder of nature without hordes of tourists.
3. Photographer’s Dream: Misty cliffs, rainbows in the spray, and jungle backdrops make it one of the most photogenic waterfalls in southern Africa.
4. Off-the-Beaten-Path Adventure: Few have heard of Calandula, and even fewer have been there. Visiting it gives your trip a real explorer's edge.

Day 1-2: Jeddah to Taif - Gateway to the Mountains

- Departing from Jeddah, we embark on a scenic drive to Taif, known as the "City of Roses." Marvel at the breathtaking views along the way as we ascend to an elevation of approximately 1,900 metres above sea level.
- Spend a day exploring the lush gardens, historic sites, and vibrant souks of Taif. The very best time to visit Taif is early May, when Taif Rose Festival takes place. In 2024 this festival takes place from 7th to 14th of May.

- Don't miss a visit to the Al-Hada Mountain, offering panoramic vistas of the surrounding valleys and plains.

- *Travel Distance:* Jeddah to Taif (Approximately 180 km), *Travel Time:* Around 2-3 hours.

- There is plenty of accommodation in Taif, but only few offer breakfast. Click here for 4 best rated accommodation with breakfast and swimming pool in Taif.

Day 3-4: Al Baha - Amidst Majestic Mountain

- We continue onward to Al Baha, nestled amidst the majestic Sarawat Mountains. Delight in the cool mountain air as we explore the verdant valleys, towering cliffs, and ancient forts of this hidden gem.

-Thee Ain, a historical village nestled amidst the arid desert landscapes is the main reason to hang around Al Baha. Explore the ancient architecture, narrow alleys, and cultural heritage of this fascinating destination.

- Experience the tranquillity of the Shada Mountain Park, where scenic hiking trails lead to breathtaking viewpoints overlooking the picturesque landscapes.

- *Elevation:* Approximately 2,200 metres above sea level.

Again - there is plenty of accommodation in Al Baha, but only few offer breakfast. Click here for 4 best rated accommodation with breakfast in Al Baha.

Day 5: Abha - Jewel of the South

- Continuing our adventure, we arrive in Abha, the vibrant cultural hub of the region. Explore the bustling souks, traditional villages, and lush greenery of the Asir region.
- Don't miss a visit to the iconic Abha Palace Museum and the towering Jabal Sawda, the highest peak in Saudi Arabia at approximately 3,133 metres above sea level.

- *Elevation:* Approximately 2,270 metres above sea level.

- *Travel Distance:* Al Baha to Abha (Approximately 330 km), *Travel Time:* Around 5 hours.

Accommodation is cheap in Abhá. Couple can get a double room with breakfast in decent hotel for 50 USD with breakfast (link here). We stayed 2 adults and 2 children for same 50$, just without breakfast.

Day 6: Rijal Almaa - Architectural and cultural Gem

- We visited Rijal Almaa as a day trip from Abha. This UNESCO World Heritage site and a cultural is a true gem of southwestern Saudi Arabia. Beautifully preserved traditional architecture, with its intricately carved wooden facades and ornate balconies, kept us busy for hours.

- We wandered through the winding streets of the village, discovering hidden courtyards, ancient mosques, and charming souks. Immerse yourselves in the rich history and cultural heritage of this picturesque mountain village, nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Asir region.

- Rijal Almaa offers a unique glimpse into the timeless beauty and cultural diversity of Saudi Arabia, making it a must-visit destination for travelers exploring the southwest.

Accommodation in Rijal Almaa in close to none. There is a café in front of the museum which offers accommodation in Rijal Almaa. This place is not bookable online and is not even on google maps (as of December 2024).

This makes a trip to Rijal Almaa a one day return trip from Abhá. Or you can schedule your visit to Rijal Almaa as stop on the way to from Yazan.

- *Elevation:* Rjal Almaa is slightly above 1,000 metres above sea level. Going to or from Abhá, you will cross Al Soudal, a misty town on a hilltop, at 3000 metres above sea level. The scenic drive along the steep mountain slopes between Al Soudal and Rilaj Almaa will be the tough test for your car. Let motor cool down at viewpoints going uphill and surely do let breaks cool while going downhill.

Day 7: Wadi Lajib - Canyon Adventure

- Departing from Abha, we ventured to Wadi Lajib for a spectacular canyon experience. The towering rock formations and narrow canyon walls reminded us of the Siq in Petra, just with no tourists in sight. We had winding riverbeds of Wadi Lajib just for ourselves, as we hike through this natural wonder.

- With 4WD you can drive deep into Wadi Lajib canyon. We had a decent 2WD, still I did not want to drive along the path covered in water, so we left our car kind of half way deep into the canyon.

- *Travel Distance:* Abhá to Wadi Lajib is approximately 165 km
- *Travel Time:* Expect around 2,5 hours. First downhill, then uphill.

Day 8-10: Jazan to Farasan Island - Coastal Paradise

- We moved to the seaside city of Jazan, from where Journey you and embark on a epic ferry journey to Farasan Islands, a pristine paradise surrounded by turquoise waters. We spend two days and three nights exploring the island's fishermen life, white sandy beaches and mangrove forests.

- *Travel Distance:* Jazan to Farasan Island (Approximately 50 km by ferry)
- *Travel Time:* Around 1-2 hours.

Days 2-3: Al Hofuf, Al Ahsa, the biggest oasis in the world

Travel Distance: Riyadh to Al-Hofuf (Approximately 320 km), Travel Time: Around 3,5 hours.

On the second day, we departed eastward to Al-Hofuf. Initially it was confusing, as Al Hofuf and Al Ahsa are both names used for this town. I understand now, that Al Ahsa is the name of the oasis and within greater Al Hofuf City.

We enjoyed captivating desert landscapes along the hundreds of kilometers highway from Riyadh to Al Hofuf. In Al-Hofuf, we explore the ancient Al-Qarah Mountain a UNESCO World Heritage site. Check the video below. In the city centre the Qaisariya Al-Ahsa Souq is beautifully restored old market area. Nearby Alamiriah School has pretty architecture and historical significance as school for royal princesses.

Day 4: Al Uqayr beach - Seaside Serenity

Travel Distance: Al-Hofuf to Al Uqayr (Approximately 110 km), Travel Time: Around 1,5 hours.

We departed from Al-Hofuf and headed east to Al Uqayr, a picturesque seaside area nestled along the Arabian Gulf coast. Spent a leisurely day soaking up the sun on pristine beaches and enjoying warm waters of the Arabian sea. Nothing underscores the laid-back coastal vibe of Al Uqayr more, then the fact, that along some 40 km of coastline, we were the only visitors.

First we had our picnic lunch some one kilometer south of the Uqair castle and then enjoyed shallow waters of the First Reef lake to the north. The infrastructure here includes toilets, shades and even grills are ready to be used with visitors. However, no shops, no restaurants. So get all you need for a day from Al Hofuf.

Day 5 - Return to Riyadh with Desert Delights along the way

Travel Distance: Al Uqayr to Riyadh (Approximately 420 km), Travel Time: Around 4 hours.

Along our journey back to Riyadh, we made 2 stops along the way. First we explored the  Al Hofuf' s camel market. Second we enjoyed mesmerizing sand dunes at sunset, thrill of dune bashing and marvel at the ever-shifting sandscape illuminated by the golden hues of twilight.

We found the best dunes near the small town Sa'ad. If open, you can even overnight here in Najdiya camp. Check it out and let us know how was it.

Arriving in Riyadh, stock up with food and water for the next exciting day.

Day 6: The Edge of the World or The Edge of Alammariya

Travel Distance: Riyadh to The Edge of the World (Approximately 100 km)
Travel Time: Around 2,5 hours. This involves a lot of off road driving.

Travel Distance: Riyadh to The Edge of the Alammariya (Approximately 70 km)
Travel Time: Around 1,5 hours.

On this day, embark on a day trip to the Edge of the World ot Edge of the Alammariya. Both are stunning geological marvels located just outside Riyadh. Trek to the edge of towering cliffs that offer panoramic views of the surrounding desert landscape, creating an otherworldly experience. Explore the rugged terrain and capture breathtaking photos of the dramatic rock formations that have been sculpted by centuries of wind and erosion.

We heard that the Edge of the World, which is more famous, was closed for visitors. Thus we opted for the Edge of the Alammariya and it was just stunning. From a distance, it seemed impossible to climb up to the top along steep cliff. But the path turned out easy and we all managed, included our 7 years old daughter. Check it out at the video below:

Day 7: Riyadh - Exploring the Capital's Charms

We spent our final day in Riyadh delving deeper into the city's cultural and historical treasures. We visited the interesting and historically important Masmak Fortress. The nearby Souq Al-Zal hosts a vibrant marketplace in its heart, where you may experience the public, open air auction of antiquities. Leaving Souq Al-Zal, Riyadh was hit by rare heavy rain storm. I was interesting to see such a heavy rain in the middle of the desert country.

Reflecting on our unforgettable journey through eastern Saudi Arabia as we bid farewell to the captivating kingdom and flew home from Riyadh International Airport.

Riyadh and the east of Saudia conclusion

As your week-long adventure through the northwest of Saudi Arabia comes to an end, we carry with us the memories of ancient times, natural wonders, and cultural marvels that have left an indelible mark on our souls. This itinerary offers a glimpse into the timeless beauty and rich heritage of Saudi Arabia, inviting you to explore its treasures and uncover the magic that lies within its borders.

Days 2-3: Medina - The City of the Prophet

Travel Distance: Jeddah to Medina (Approximately 450 km), Travel Time: Around 4-5 hours.

Drive to Medina and spend two days exploring the sacred city. The Prophet's Mosque, adorned with intricate Islamic architecture, welcomes pilgrims from around the world. Quba Mosque, the first mosque built by Prophet Muhammad, offers a peaceful retreat.

Non Muslims are now allowed to enter Medina and explore its culture and vibe. This is a holy city, so I suggest you to dress and behave modestly. While non Muslims are not allowed to enter Prophet's mosque inside, you can reach nearby the mosque and feel the vibe and power of this holy place. Sunset prayer is the best time. Arrive before sunset and stay till late. The area is huge, you will need a few hours to get around.

Time permitting, explore the historical sites of Uhud, where the Battle of Uhud took place. The Uhud Mountain and the Martyrs' Cemetery provide a poignant glimpse into the city's profound significance.

Days 4-6: AlUla - A Tapestry of History and Nature

Travel Distance: Medina to AlUla (Approximately 700 km),
Travel Time: Around 5-7 hours. The road is excellent and largely empty.

Discover the archaeological wonders of Madain Saleh in Hegra a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its well-preserved Nabatean tombs and rock-cut structures. The intricately carved facades tell stories of a bygone era. This will remind you Petra in Jordan. Yes it is the heritage of the same Nabatean tribe from the same historical period. Hegra is much less touristy than Petra.

Marvel at Elephant Rock, a natural geological formation resembling an elephant, standing tall in the desert landscape. Explore AlUla Oasis, an unexpected green haven amidst the golden sands. Stop by the old town, to see, how the restoration is going on. It will be nice when finished.

Ride to the Harrat viewpoint for a breathtaking view of the expansive desert valleys, revealing the true beauty of the AlUla region.

We only had 2 days and 2 nights in AlUla, butI honestly find 2 nights in AlUla too little for this amazing place. I would be nice to have 3 full days to quietly enjoy everything this region has to offer.

Day 7-9: Yanbu - Underwater Paradise

Travel Distance: AlUla to Yanbu (Approximately 800 km), Travel Time: Around 8-9 hours.

Yanbu Diving and snorkelling

This is what you come here for. Dive into the azure waters of the Red Sea in Yanbu, known for its vibrant coral reefs and diverse marine life. Explore its mesmerizing underwater ecosystem teeming with colorful fish and intricate coral formations.

Yanbu Sharm dive and snorkeling location.

Discover Yanbu Sharm, a popular shore dive site, offering crystal-clear waters and the chance to encounter various marine species. Some 10 minutes swill away from the shore, a surprise sunken ship will make your diving day perfect. Yanbu Sharm is also great for snorkeling.

IONA ship wreck

Do not miss the massive IONA ship wreck and reef which sunk the ship 100 years ago. It is some 30-40 minutes by a speed boat. IONA ship has hit the reef here some 100 years ago and this giant ship is now partially covered in corrals. The reef is also nice for snorkelling.

If diving is your priority, also add the 7 sisters reef into you itinerary.

You will need a full day to visit each IONA and another full day for 7 sisters reef. Yanbu Sharm is a shore dive so half a day is enough. We spent two full days in Yanbu and you would need 3 days or at least 2 and half day to all 3 locations. As I mentioned above, plan for the weekend, Friday and Saturday, so you will have someone to share the cost of diving boat with.

Yanbu Old Town

The Yanbu Old Town's historic charm and the scenic Yanbu Corniche provide a perfect blend of culture and relaxation. Enjoy a relaxing evening stroll along the picturesque Corniche, where the sea breeze and old town building create a serene atmosphere.

Al-Qarah Caves

The Al-Qarah Caves are a series of natural limestone caves located at the base of Al Qarah Mountain. The caves are believed to have formed over millions of years due to the erosion of the limestone by water. They feature stunning rock formations, stalactites, and stalagmites, as well as underground lakes and streams. Naturally, caves are home to a number of species of bats, which inhabit the dark crevices and feed on insects.

The Al-Qarah Cave Park is a popular tourist attraction that offers visitors the opportunity to explore the caves and learn about their geological and historical significance. The park features a visitor center with a small museum. Here visitors can learn about the formation of the caves and their role in the history and culture of the region. Guided tours are also available.  These take visitors deep into the caves to explore their many chambers and formations.

The entry fee to The Al-Qarah Cave Park is 57,50 SAR for adults. (Many, even the official web sites, mention 50 SAR entry fee, but that is an old information. Children below 12 years enjoy free entry.

Overall, I can say that the caves in the Al Qarah Mountains were a pleasant surprise for me. We visited them during the day and liked them so much that we came back after sunset. We agreed with the staff that we would return and so we didn't pay the entrance fee the second time. But I don't think that was the usual way things work. I felt like they were accommodating a wish of strange foreigners who came to visit Al Qarah with their kids, during Ramadan. We were not only the only foreign tourists there, but one of very few visitors overall.

Where next in Al Hofuf after visiting Al Qarah Caves and mountain?

Al Qarah Caves are one of the many places to admire in Al Hofuf. Do not miss the Qaisariya Al-Ahsa Souq and Alamiriah School in the old city centre. Outside of Hofuf explore the Asfar lake (The Yellow Lake), visit fascinating Camel Market or swim the Uqair Beach, just an hour drive away.

Top 5 places to see in Riyadh

Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia, is a bustling city that offers a variety of attractions to see and do for visitors. With its modern skyscrapers, historical landmarks, and natural beauty, Riyadh is a destination that has something for everyone.

Masmak Fortress

One of the top tourist attractions in Riyadh is the Masmak Fortress, a historic castle that dates back to the 19th century. This fortress played an important role in the city's history and is considered a symbol of the city's heritage. Visitors can take a tour of the fortress and learn about its history and significance.

The Masmak Fortress history

It dates back to the 19th century and played an important role in the city's history. The fortress is considered a symbol of the city's heritage and is now open to visitors as a museum.

The fortress was originally built in 1865 by the local ruler, Amir Muhammad ibn 'Abd al-Rahman, and was used as a palace and a defensive structure. In 1902, the fortress was captured by the Al Saud family. Led by Abdulaziz bin Abdul Rahman Al Saud, during a major battle that marked the start of the Saudi state. The fortress played a significant role in the unification of the country and the establishment of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

The fortress has been restored and converted into a museum, which displays artifacts and exhibits that illustrate the history and culture of the region. Visitors can take a tour of the fortress and see the various rooms and courtyards, including the main entrance, the reception hall, and the watchtower. The fortress also has a small traditional souk (market) where visitors can buy traditional crafts and souvenirs.

The Masmak Fortress opening hours

The Masmak Fortress is open to the public from Saturday to Thursday from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm and 4:00 pm to 8:00 pm, on Friday from 4:00 pm to 8:00 pm.

Getting to The Masmak Fortress

The fortress is located in the center of Riyadh, near the Deira district and the old city center. It's easily accessible by public transportation, and there is a parking lot nearby. The nearest metro station to the Masmak Fortress is the "Al-Bathaa" station, which is on the blue line. The station is located about 10-15 minutes walking distance from the fortress.

Another option for public transportation is the bus. Several bus routes pass near the Masmak Fortress, , including routes numbers: 11, 18, 20, 24, 25, 29, 33, 34, 38, 39, 44, 52, 55, 60, 62, 63, 66, 70, 71, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 96, 97, 98, 99, and 105.

The Kingdom Centre, a skyscraper

Another must-see attraction in Riyadh is the Kingdom Centre, a skyscraper that offers spectacular views of the city from its observation deck. The Kingdom Centre, also known as Al-Murabba Tower, is a skyscraper located in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. It is the third tallest building in the city and the tenth tallest in the country. The building stands at a height of 302 meters (990 feet) and has 52 floors.

The Kingdom Centre was completed in 2002 and was designed by the American architectural firm, Ellerbe Becket. The building's unique design features a hole at the top of the tower, which gives it a distinctive appearance and has led to it being referred to as the "bottle opener" building.

The building is primarily used for office space, but it also includes a shopping mall, residential apartments, and a Four Seasons hotel. The observation deck on the 42nd floor offers panoramic views of the city and is a popular tourist attraction. The tower also features a fitness center, a swimming pool, and a spa.

The building's unique design and location make it a popular destination for visitors and locals alike. It's a good representation of the modernization of Riyadh, and the blending of western architecture with traditional Islamic design principles.

Getting to the The Kingdom Centre skyscraper in Riyadh

The Kingdom Centre is located in the Al-Murabba district of Riyadh, which is considered one of the most upscale areas of the city. The building is located close to major highways and is easily accessible by public transport.

The nearest metro station to the Kingdom Centre is "Olaya" station which is on the red line. The station is located about 5 minutes walking distance from the tower.

Several bus routes pass near the Kingdom Centre, including routes numbers: 11, 18, 20, 24, 25, 29, 33, 34, 38, 39, 44, 52, 55, 60, 62, 63, 66, 70, 71, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 96, 97, 98, 99 and 105.

For those looking to experience some of Riyadh's natural beauty, the King Salman Park is a great option. This park offers a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city, with its lush gardens, lakes, and walking trails. Visitors can also enjoy a variety of recreational activities, such as boating and horseback riding.

The nearest metro stations to the King Salman Park are "Nassim" and "Qasr Al Hokm" station, which are both on the Red Line. The Nassim station is located about 10 minutes walking distance from the park, while the Qasr Al Hokm station is located about 15 minutes walking distance. Several bus routes that pass near the park too.

National Museum of Saudi Arabia

For culture enthusiasts, the National Museum of Saudi Arabia is a must-visit. This museum showcases the rich history and culture of the country, with exhibits on traditional crafts, artifacts, and manuscripts.

The nearest metro station to the National Museum of Saudi Arabia is "Olaya" station, which is on the Red Line. The station is located about 20-25 minutes walking distance from the museum. It's also good to know that there are several bus routes that pass near the museum.

Souk Al-Thumairi

For those looking for a unique shopping experience, the Souk Al-Thumairi is a traditional market that offers a wide range of local products, including textiles, spices, and traditional crafts. Visitors can also sample local street food and enjoy live entertainment.

In conclusion, Riyadh is a city that offers a diverse range of experiences for visitors. From its historical landmarks, to its natural beauty, and from its modern skyscrapers to its traditional markets, Riyadh has something to offer for everyone.

Week in Oman, Day 1:

Take In Muscat’s Vibrant City Vibe

With its astonishing location in the midst of the Gulf of Oman and Hajjar Mountains, Muscat is one of the Arabian Peninsula’s most unique and of course striking capital cities. It’s unrivaled for its perfect blend of modernity, old world charm and of course unpretentious natural beauty. So start your Oman holidays by checking out Muscat’s cool attractions! And the most recommended way to experience all is via a comprehensive city tour.

This mainly includes a visit to Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque which is the country’s main mosque and a must-experience for its architectural grandeur; it’s open for non-Muslims as well.  Depending on your sightseeing route, you’ll further visit the embassy quarter and also get to check out the old city at Mutrah that is famed for the beautiful Mutrah Corniche as well as the traditional Mutrah Souq (where you can shop Arabian ouds, carpets, traditional attires etc).

The place is even more compelling as the sun goes down. Sign up for a dedicated night tour which mainly takes you to Bait Al Zubair Museum, Mutrah Harbor, and mostly the blissfully illuminated Al Alam Palace that create a stunning spectacle. Alternatively, you can go on a sunset cruise that gives you a grand standpoint of Muscat’s illumed skyline views. This allows you to see the iconic landmarks from water while relishing refreshing complimentary drinks.

Adding a word: At the north end of Mutrah, lively fish market is busy wit activity in the morning. (Roland)

Week in Oman, Day 2:

Dedicate This Day For Cool Water Activities

The region is not only famed for its striking cityscape, but also for its incredible seascape with exuberant waters that lie off the shores of Muscat. It harbors some of the most fascinating and adorable marine inhabitants such as dolphins. So why not set out on a dedicated cruise that lets you spot these adorable creatures at close quarters. Setting off from Marina Bandar Al-Rowdha, this further gives you the chance to see the stunning rock formations and the region’s rugged coastline all in its true splendor.

Listen to an enlightening commentary that sheds some amazing facts about dolphins and this even includes some interesting info about their eating patterns. You can even add a thrilling session of snorkeling to make this day more exciting and unforgettable. So what better way to come face to face with the region’s colorful coral reefs, sea turtles and other lively marine species that thrive in the Gulf of Oman?

Week in Oman, Day 3:

Visit Jebel Shams & See Oman’s Version Of Grand Canyon

Satiate your love for action, adventure, and nature all on this day as you make your way to Jebel Shams and also visit Wadi Ghul which is famously dubbed as the Grand Canyon of Oman. Get the right vehicle with or without driver to reach here, about 240 kilometers away from Oman (approximately 3.5 hours). With a lot to explore, it’s most ideal to sign up for a guided excursion.

At an altitude of over 3000 meters, Jebel Shams is the highest mountain in the country, while Wadi Ghul is about 500 meters deep which makes it the deepest canyon in the Middle East. To make the most of this day, make sure that you start early. Take the hiking trail, popularly known as Balcony Walk, which leads you through the side of Wadi Ghul. Not to mention, this passes you through some of the most scenic views.

Add to this a visit to Jebel Akhdar which is rightly called the Green Mountain for its breathtaking lush beauty. It’s also recommended to pause at Birkat Al Mauz which is stunning for its verdant date plantations, archaic clay structures, and UNESCO-listed falaj canals. Moreover, as part of your Grand Canyon visit, make a stop at the historic Al Hamra town that dates back to more than 300 years. Another similar settlement you should not miss is Misfat al Abriyyin.

Week in Oman, Day 4:

Spend A Day At Nizwa

Just about two hours from Jebel Shams, this place is unmissable for culture vultures. As a place ingrained in fascinating culture and legends, a quick drive to Nizwa allows you to be part of some intriguing experiences. Explore the iconic Nizwa Souk, locally called Old Souk; this bustling spot is the ultimate hub for shopping one-off souvenirs, savor traditional foods etc. If you’re traveling here on a Friday, then you’ll be able to take in the Nizwa Livestock Market where animals, herders and farmers gather from all over the region. Another must-see attraction is the 16^th century Nizwa Fort which is one of the finest illustrations of the classic Omani forts. Apart from these, Nizwa also serves as a gateway to other historical attractions in the region, mainly Tanuf Ruins and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bahla Fort

Week in Oman, Day 5:

Explore Wahiba Sands ­­­­­­­­­

What’s a trip to an Arabian destination without journeying you to its pristine and unscathed desert land?  So set aside this day to explore the ethereal dunescape of Wahiba Sands, which is 195 kilometers away from Nizwa and about 240 kilometers from Muscat. This not only introduces to unparalleled desert sands but also lets you glimpse into the authentic Omani culture and traditions. Being an absolute off-road tour, our strong suggestion is to go on a guided desert excursion instead of self-drive.

This is mostly inclusive of a powerful 4X4 ride and further comes with the opportunity to see real nomads, ride friendly camels, and even take in the age-old remnants with a visit to quaint hamlets such as Ibra and Fanjah. There will also be a stop at Wadi Bani Khalid whose fertile grounds are packed with lush plantations, refreshing pools, and pristine natural springs, among others. And don’t miss Sumeil Gap – the natural gap which divides the Western and Eastern Hajjar Mountains.

Week in Oman, Day 6:

Head To Sur & Ras Al Jinz

Placed about 160 kilometers from Wahiba Sands and 150 kilometers from Muscat, the coastal town of Sur is a definite see for its surreal sights and attractions. Foremost of them is Bimah Sinkhole; this natural phenomenon is 20 meters deep and 50 meters / 70 meters wide. Legend has it that it formed due to a falling meteorite.

Located in Hawiyat Najm Park and surrounded by distinct rock formations, this sinkhole also allows for a refreshing dip in its cool water. That’s not all, you can further take in the paradisiacal beauty of Wadi Tiwi (filled with fruit plantations and stunning pools), discover Fins Beach, and most of all, visit Wadi Shab that is sure to take your breath away for its verdant beauty and magnificent waterfalls.

About 45 minutes to 50 minutes’ drive from Sur is Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve; it is considered the only place on the planet where you can spot endangered green turtles.

Week in Oman, Day 7:

Relax At Muscat’s Beaches

Back in Muscat, dependent on your time availability, you can admire the region’s stunning beaches, do some last-minute shopping and even check off the sights (if any) you’ve missed.

Top Oman Travel Tips by Neha Singh

• Book your hotel accommodations in advance and this is applicable to your airline tickets as well.
• With lots to see and explore, make sure that you pre-reserve every aspect of your sightseeing to avoid any kind of hassles along the way.
• If you’re traveling to Oman from Dubai, the place is easily accessible on a two-hour ride via road. You can also choose from dedicated tours like Musandam Dibba Tour or Musandam Khasab Tour.

Top Oman Travel Tips by Roland 

Taking an organized tour is suitable for some visitors. Some of us enjoy freedom of making their own plans and do not need a guide.

• We have taken our own tent to Oman. Internet sources told us, that Oman is historically a nomadic country and pitching your own tent is welcome. True. Locals welcomed us and treated us well.
• We have rented our own car. Picked the cheapest 2WD Toyota. Roads in Oman are good. Yes we got stuck in the sand once or twice when driving village side roads, but there were always locals willing to push
• If you can, spend two weeks. Itinerary could be the same as Neha suggested, just take it more relaxed. Spend more time in the desert. At least one night. And spend more time at the sea side, snorkeling and diving. My wife and I did our diving course near Muscat. It is not cheap there, though.

 Conclusion

With this one week in Oman program, we anticipate that you’ll get to experience a bit of everything that this enormously captivating Arabian land has to offer. Whether you’re visiting here for first time or revisiting, a trip to Oman is sure to gift you holidaying moments of a lifetime.

Saudi Arabia evisa entry requirements

The best Andaman beach contest methodology

What does it take for the beach to be "the best"? First let me describe the methodology. I have chosen five criteria on which to compare and rank Andaman beaches. These criteria and their respective weights are: The visual beauty 50%, the ease of swimming 20%, beauty of the underwater world for snorkelling 15%, the freedom of snorkelling 5% and the facilities available at the beach or nearby 15%. A beach can score between zero and one hundred points in each criteria.

Top weighting factor

The visual beauty has a 50% weight as a ranking factor. You may agree or disagree with my ranking of different factors. I tried to be fair to everyone. Some people simply don't know how to swim and they only come to the beach to make a selfie and post it on Facebook. For them, the visual charm could weight more than 50%. Some people care about the attraction of the underworld  and they would attach bigger weight to this factor. Some people need facilities. I will describe all the beaches in more details to let all the people know which Andaman beach is the best for them.

Please see the complete table with all the beaches, criteria and scores at the end of this article.

And the winner of The best beach in Andaman islands is: Lalaji Bay Beach, Long Island!

1. Lalaji Bay Beach, Long Island

Lalaji Bay Beach, Long Island, is visually pretty, scores 100 points in terms of swimming, it has fair underwater world and it's snorkelling freedom together with facilities scored 100%. This makes Lalaji bay the beach for everyone: swimmers, snorkelling fans, those in need for facilities, everything is present there and in good quality. Lalaji bay versality lies in the sandy beach and sandy bottom at the centre of the beach combined with rocky shores, attractive for snorkelling at the edges. While remote and little visited, Lalaji Bay offer surprisingly good facilities. There is a wooden hut providing welcome shade, toilets and even a shower! The nearby Sea Mohwa Grove resort’s restaurant offers reasonable cooked food and drinks. And guess what? This beach is totally empty and chances are very high, that you will enjoy it on your own. What else do you need?

Lalaji Bay Beach scored 90.5 total weighted average points.

3. Elephanta beach, Havelock.

While Elephanta beach did not win any of the sub categories, it still comes third in total. Elephanta is visually beautiful and bodes well for both swimmers and snorkelers alike. While there is no much in terms of facilities, no showers or proper toilets, there is a small food market organised by local residents, that offers snacks to visitors of this busy beach, so you will not die from hunger there. Actually Elephanta could grab the silver medal, overcoming even the Radhanagar, however it failed on one tiny factor. The freedom of snorkelling. (I will describe and discuss it in details later.)

Elephanta beach scored 78.5 total weighted average points.

4. Beaches at Ross and Smith

The pretty beaches at Ross and Smith islands duo in the north of the archipelago are the obvious candidate for top Andaman beach ranking. And they score high. Ross and Smith is the second most visually beautiful beach and it is also scores 100 points on the ease of swimming. Similarly to Radhanagar, its sandy bottom is pretty useless in terms of snorkelling. Moreover, your snorkelling gear will be confiscated by police control at Aerial Bay jetty passenger hall, thus scoring zero on snorkelling freedom. Ross and Smith facilities are fairly good. There are shades, benches, toilets and even a well water bucket as fair shower alternative. Excellent. The last piece missing in the facilities puzzle is lack of any available food, snacks or water here. This is BYOF&W Islands. (Bring your own food and water)

Ross and Smith beaches scored 74 total weighted average points.

6. Jolly Buoy (MG Marine NP)

Jolly Buoy is kind of binary island. It is the best of Andaman islands in terms of beauty of the underwater world for snorkelling. Jolly Buoy also scores high points in terms of facilities. In addition to shades and toilets there is an impromptu arranged snacks and drinks stall, offering these at very fair prices. However Jolly buoy is a total failure in terms of swimming and snorkelling freedom. Swimming at Jolly Buoy is an annoying, laughable and only suitable for non-swimmers. Overprotecting bureaucracy built a nest around small stretch of beach, packed 200 non-swimmers, who dip into the water here for a selfie, but proper swimming is a no-go inside nor outside of the fence. Awkward. The most annoying thing is snorkelling. You cannot go snorkelling anywhere you want, just to one place. Fine, I am OK with that. But the fact, that you can only snorkel holding hands with a “specially trained snorkelling instructor”, will drive any foreigner crazy, especially if he or she is a certified diver. Moreover, one must snorkel in the extremely annoying life west, taken from the boat. Did I say that the annoying life west and certified guide, that you neither want, nor need, costs 1000Rs per some 25 minutes swim? Jolly Buoy is a place from which you may leave with ruined experience, thanks to local bureaucracy, nothing else. Allow for free swim and free snorkel and Jolly Buoy will top the list next time.

Jolly Buoy beach scored 70 total weighted average points.

7. Laxmanpur aka Sunset beach Nr. 1, Neil

Scored 69,5 total weighted average points.

8. Kala Pathar Beach, Little Andaman

Scored 68

9. Corbins' Cove, Port Blair

Scored 66,5

10. Sitapur aka Sunrise beach Nr. 5, Neil

Scored 63,5

11. Bharatpur, Beach Nr. 3, Neil

Scored 62,5

12. Kalipur Beach, North Andaman

Scored 53

13. Butler Bay Beach, Little Andaman

Butler Bay Beach is visually very pretty. In total it scored 52.5

13. Jetty beach, Havelock

Scored 36,25 total weighted average points only. Sorry, we did not take a picture of that beach.

Which are the 5 most beautiful Andaman Beaches?

The winner in the category of The 5 most beautiful Andaman Beach is Radhanagar Beach.

The visual beauty surely is hard to measure and this criteria is down to authors personal perception of beauty. Radhanagar is truly breath-taking, white sand, turquoise ocean and green jungle beach. It is the most visually beautiful beach in Andaman Islands, scoring 100% in this criteria. Ross and Smith duo Island beaches in North Andaman come second for their unique dou character, white sand and shades of blue. Elephanta beach, Havelock, comes third as it is vast and dotted with uprooted trees, that add strange beauty element into the beach. Lalaji bay, Long Island, beach shares 4th-5th place together with Jolly Buoy.

Which are the 6 Andaman Beaches best for swimming?

To score high in terms of the ease of swimming a beach needs to be shallow, slowly sloping and without large waves or dangerous underwater stones, you may get hurt with. There are actually 3 winners as 3 beaches are just perfect and the all scored 100 points in this category: Lalaji bay beach, Radhanagar beach plus Ross and Smith are just swim perfect. Elephanta beach and Craggy Island follow the leaders with 90 points in terms the ease of swimming.

Which are the 4 Andaman Beaches best for snorkelling?

The best Andaman beach in terms of the beauty of the underwater world for snorkelling is without a doubt the Jolly Buoy. Craggy Island comes second, followed by Elephanta beach. Lalaji bay beach is the last Andaman beach worth mentioning as beach good for snorkelling. The other beaches are rather disappointing in terms of the beauty of the underwater world for snorkelling. Combining factor of beauty with factor of freedom, Craggy would be the best, followed by Lalaji.

Snorkelling freedom

However, before we shake hands to the winner in this sub category, it is worth looking not only at the beauty itself, but also at the freedom of snorkelling.

The regulation says, that you are only allowed to snorkel with certified snorkelling instructor. Foreigners will find it unacceptable piece of regulation. Let us be clear here. Snorkeling is FREE anywhere and everywhere I happened to be in 25 years of my travels, be it Thailand, Indonesia, Maldives, Vietnam, Egypt, Oman, to name a few. This regulation is twice unacceptable if the person is actually a certified diver, as me and my wife are.

While we praise the Jolly buoy’s marine beauty, this is one of two beaches that is not free. You need to pay the entry fee. Moreover, the permit costs Rs 500 for foreigners, but only Rs 50 for Indian residents. While I understand and partially support the idea of subsidized items for poor, subsidizing luxury goods for rich is pure nonsense. Cost should be equal for any non-islanders and only islanders should be subsidized. On a top of that, you need to actually pay Rs 1000 for the instructor that will go snorkeling with you.

The regulation is also enforced at Elephanta beach, where we were informed by Forest department officers, that snorkeling is not allowed. On the way to Ross and Smith, your bags will be searches and your snorkeling gear will be held by police until you return.

A gentle note to Andaman Administration. If you want to compete regionally for foreign tourists, this is the first regulation to cancel.

5 Andaman beaches with best facilities

 These four beaches top the list of Andaman beaches with best facilities: Jolly Buoy,  Lalaji bay, Jetty beach (Havelock) and Corbins' Cove in Port Blair. Fifth place grabbed Laxmanpur aka Sunset beach Nr. 1, Neil Island.

Andaman islands are attractive and should be visited exactly because they are remote, pristine and lack of facilities is to be expected. Even though, having possibility to hide in the shade, sit on a bench, get a drink or simple food is welcome quality even at the remote place. Some beaches can even offer toilets and only two of  those very best provide a shower.

I have mentioned Jolly Buoy and Lalaji’s facilities before. Jetty beach (Havelock) benefits from its proximity to Havelock Jetty, where food and shops are abundant all day long and the same can be said about Corbins' Cove beach in Port Blair. Neil’s Sunset beach get busy as sunset approaches and otherwise empty beach lives up with stalls offering, food, drinks and souvenirs.

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How to get to Rainbow falls.

After reaching Nongriat, you have a choice of going back to Tyrna (which would be a pity) or going to Rainbow Falls and back (which for most people maybe be too much for one day) or staying for the night (which is the right thing to do). Sleep well and with energy recharged, head to Rainbow falls. Journey to Rainbow Falls is amazing, beautiful and thrilling in some parts. You will need to overcome Mawsaw steel bridge, hanging over the river valley, encounter a few root bridges on the way and splash in the natural pool before you hit the scenic waterfall.

[ For facts and figures on how to reach Nongriat, please check our Meghalaya Guide Book here]

Trek from Nongriat to Rainbow falls and back is different and somehow more difficult than the Tyrna – Nongriat part. The first thing, that makes the trek more difficult is, that the path is not “paved” by firm stairs, as the Tyrna – Nongiat sidewalk is. While the path is clearly visible and there is no need for a guide, it may be muddy and slippery in parts, especially after the rain. The second thing makes it easier. To get to Rainbow falls, you do not need to overcome huge elevation differences. The trek is slightly uphill, but not steep.

If you do not have the full day to go to Rainbow Falls, but you have some spare hour or two, just walk some 30 minutes from Nongriat to Mawsaw steel bridge and enjoy the thrill and scenery crossing it.

Accommodation and food

Tyrna is the last point where cars and small trucks can reach. Therefore it is the last point to grab a few snacks or water bottles. However, Tyrna itself is pretty small and remote village. You better take supplies from Cherapunjee or Shillong.

There a few snack stalls along the stairway, selling tea, biscuits and occasionally a pineapple. Some of the tea shacks offer a million dollar view down the valley. The only place to get any warm, cooked food, is in your accommodation. Be prepared for the food to be simple. Best food is served at Serene Home-stay.

Nongriat

Nongriat is the only village with any accommodation options on this trek. There are only 4 or 5 small home-stays in the village. The capacity of those 4-5 places is limited. The worst thing that can happen to you is that all are full and you need to climb back the same day, to sleep in Tyrna. I do not think this happens often and I strongly believe locals will go out of their way to accommodate you, but still, it can happen. Please be realistic in expectations and book your home-stay ahead.

[If you like this article, check also 3 Things To Know Before You Visit Meghalaya Root Bridges]

How fit do I need to be to trek to Rainbow falls?

We have managed the trek with 2 children, 2 and 6 years old! That is the best way to answer this question. Saying so, I must admit that the trek is quite difficult. Take your time and do not rush it.

Budget for 2 nights in Nongriat, that will give you time for the rest and you will be fine. Day 1 you arrive from Shillong, trek down to Nongriat to stay there. On the second day you trek to Rainbow falls and back to Nongriat for your second night. On the third day, climb back to Tyrna and head back to Shillong or wherever you might be heading next.

If you have a problem with your knees, I would advise against trekking in this steep area. Visit a tall building and try to walk to 20^th floor and back by stairs 10 times and see how your knee reacts.

What is the best time to visit Rainbow falls in Meghalaya?

Meghalaya is one of few place, where visiting in rainy season makes a lot of sense. My opinion is that you can visit anytime, rainy or dry season, each has advantages and disadvantages. The ideal time is just as the monsoon ended. Rivers are still full of water but it is not raining that much.

We have visited Rainbow falls in dry season. The advantage of the dry season is, obviously, dry terrain and easier trekking. However the disadvantage is that rivers go almost dry and waterfalls shrink to a trickle. Obviously the advantage of visiting during or shortly after rains is that the waterfalls will be majestic and river crossing thrilling. However, trekking to places like Rainbow Waterfall will be very muddy and slippery.

Take care ?

Getting to Meghalaya living root bridges - The usual way.

First by air to Assam or Meghalaya

All Indian airlines connect multiple Indian cities with the capital of Assam, the city of Guwahati. Flight are frequent, competition high and prices low. There is also a “Shillong airport”, at the village of Umroi, some 1-hour drive from the Shillong itself. This is a small airport with the less frequent connection. Check the price and timing of flights to Shillong, if nothing reasonable is found, fly to Guwahati. Meghalaya Transport Corporation (M.T.C.) runs a bus from Umroi Airport to town. It costs 100,- RS per person. Make sure you catch it, the taxi cost would be ruinous.

From Guwahati airport to Shillong by bus or taxi.

From Guwahati airport, you have multiple options. Best is to ask around the parking lot to see if there are shared taxis, jeeps directly to Shillong. This is your fastest bet, it will take anywhere from 3,5 to 5 hours to reach Shillong.

The second best option is the direct M.T.C. bus between Shillong and Meghalaya Airport. It departs Shillong at 6:30 a.m. and 9 a.m. and departs Guwahati airport at 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. The fare is Rs. 250,-

Alternatively take an airport bus to the Guwahati bus station in the city centre, from where you can take either bus or shared taxi to Shillong. Obviously, the bus will be cheaper and less convenient. For the taxi, prepare to pay 350-500 Rs per person, depending on the car and number of sharing passengers.

One option, which sounds pretty good to me, is using the Meghalaya Helicopter service. Price is acceptable: 1500 Rs per passenger, one way. Choppers land near the Shillong city, e.g. not at the distant airport and the flight duration is 30 minutes only.

From Shillong  via Cherapunjee to Tyrna (for Double Decker living root bridge) by Bus

Once you got used to the fact, that things like transport are cheap in India, you will face painful truth in Meghalaya. Transport is cheap only if you move between populated places together with other local inhabitants. Meghalaya is mountainous and sparsely populates the state of India and you are heading where mostly tourists and not locals go. You will need a taxi. Prepare a thicker wallet.

Public bus and shared jeeps travel in Meghalaya

There should be a bus between Shillong and Cherapunjee (Sohra). This bus is not run by M.T.C. We heard it is cheap, mostly crowded, infrequent and it leaves early morning from the Police Bazar (that is how the city center is called here). Ask at M.T.C. bus station what the departure times are and check around if any shared taxis may be available. At the time of our visit, they were not. If you travel on a very tight budget or you are alone and a taxi would be out of your budget, take the bus to Cherapunjee.

However there are shared jeeps from Shillong to Cherra Punjee, then to Tyrna and vice versa. Direct shared jeeps from Shillong to Tyrna leaves at 2:00 -2:30 PM from the 1st parking lot (Bara bazaar) and Tyrna to Shillong at 7:00 AM and 1:00 PM.

Meghalaya Tourist bus

The alternative to the local bus would be a tour bus run by Meghalaya Tourism Development Corporation. They run a day trip from Shillong towards Cherapunjee, stopping at main tourist points like caves and waterfall. This tour returns back to Shillong, however you may get off at Cherapunjee and continue further on to Tyrna. Price is 350,- Rs per person which makes a lot of sense compared to a taxi.

Once you reach Cherapunjee, your choices will be similarly limited. There will be a transport once or twice a day going to Tyrna or passing by, that can drop you at Tyrna or at a nearby crossing, from where you could walk. However, it is very likely that you will need a Taxi from Cherapunjee to Tyrna.

Travel from Shillong via Cherapunjee and Tyrna (for Double Decker) by Taxi

Taking a taxi is expensive, but makes a lot of sense. Similar to the tourist bus, a taxi driver will stop for you at most of the interesting points en route. A taxi will also cost from 2000,- Rs per day. Saying that, please think twice before you decide to do Double Decker as a one day trip from Shillong. Count on a minimum of 2.5 hours nonstop driving time there and another 2.5 hours back. Then you need time to descend those 3700 steps from Tyrna to Nongriat (where the Double Decker is) and time to climb them back. When will you enjoy the bridges and scenery? Do not do it and read on:

Planning and timing your visit to Double Decker living root bridge

Let me offer you 2-3 reasonable alternatives on how not to exhaust yourself and enjoy what you came for to the fullest.

Option 1. We did it this way.

Day 1. Take a taxi from Shillong to Tyrna, making a stop or two on the way. Reaching Tyrna, get something to eat and start descending to the valley. Stop at the amazing “Long bridge” en route. You will reach Nongriat later in the afternoon, check the Double Decker and overnight in Nongriat.

Day 2. Do not go back! Spend the next day fully in Khasi hills. Trek from Nongriat to the Rainbow Falls. This trek is even more amazing than the one you did a day before. Return to Nongriat to spend the second night there.

Day 3. Climb up back to Tyrna. You’ll already know how amazing the Long bridge is, thus you will visit it again. Arrange your taxi driver to wait for you in Tyrna around 2 pm and return to Shillong by evening, making a stop or two if you have any energy left.

The only disadvantage of this option is the high cost of paying 2 x 2000 Rs for the taxi.

Option 2.

If you want and can reach Cherapunjee cheaply by bus from Shillong, then do so. If there is a chance to also reach Tyrna on the same day, do so. Tyrna is only 30 minutes by car from Cherapunjee, however, transport is very infrequent. If you overnight in Cherapunjee or Tyrna you will have more time to spend in the hills, compared to starting your day in Shillong. For the rest of the plan, follow the option 1.

My suggestion here is to contact one or two accommodations in both Cherapunjee and Tyrna and check what the latest transport options are on the Tyrna - Cherapunjee - Shillong route.

Accommodation and food around Meghalaya living root bridges

Tyrna is the last point where cars and small trucks can reach. Therefore it is the last point to grab any last minute supplies. Tyrna itself is a pretty small and remote village, therefore you are better off to take supplies from Shillong or Cherapunjee.

There a few snack stalls along the way, selling tea, biscuits and occasionally a pineapple. Cooked food you can get in your accommodation and be prepared for the food to be simple. The best food is served at Serene Homestay.

Nongriat is the only village with any accommodation options on this trek. There are 4 or 5 small homestays in the village. Please be realistic in expectations and book your homestay ahead. The capacity of those 4-5 places is limited. The worst thing that can happen to you is that all are full and you need to climb back the same day, to sleep in Tyrna. I do not think this happens often and I strongly believe locals will go out of their way to accommodate you, but still, it can happen.

On the other hand, some accommodations we have seen, do not have a permanent “reception”, just a phone number hanging on the doors. The owner may not be nearby, thus calling ahead makes a lot of sense.

How fit do I need to be to trek to Double Decker living root bridge?

The best way to answer this question is to tell you that we managed the trek with 2 children, aged 2 and 6! Saying so, I must admit that the trek is difficult. You are descending 3500 stairs and climbing them back, overcoming a few hundred meters of elevation. Take your time and do not rush it. As I mentioned above, budget for 2 nights in Nongriat, that will give you time for the rest and you will be fine.

There is only one case, where I would advise against trekking to Nongriat. If you have a problem with your knees, think twice before you go. Visit a tall building and try to walk to 20^th floor and back by stairs 10 times and see how your knee reacts.

What are living root bridges?

Tribes living in the Khasi hills, near the border of the Indian state of Meghalaya and Bangladesh, live in steeply sloped hills, intersected by river streams that have created deep, often narrow valleys. For rural connectivity in this vertical landscape, bridges are essential.

During the monsoon season in Meghalaya, rainwater gushes through the deep gorges of Khasi Hills and the tribes, who inhabit these hills, have developed an exceptional relationship with the forest. Long before the arrival of modern construction materials, the Khasi devised a nature-friendly way to link isolated villages.

Two Ficus elastica trees are planted at the opposite sides of the river. Over the following years, the Khasi slowly thread tree roots across the river to connect the gap, often using a temporary bamboo scaffolding. Once the roots connect, they grow stronger and stronger. The living root bridge is able to support a crossing human within 15 to 30 years. Bridges then live for a century or even longer.

Wooden bridges would be washed away by flooded rivers. Metal bridges would corrode quickly in this humid environment. Unlike modern materials, root bridges grow stronger and more resilient over time.

For a detailed guide on how to reach the bridges click here Transport and Treks to living root bridges

Mawlynnong, the living root bridge easy to reach

Whenever you read about Meghalaya root bridges, you will realise, that trekking to most of the root bridges requires strength and energy. The Mawlynnong root bridge is the ideal alternative for anyone who wants to take it easy. This root bridge is often referred to as "Mawlynnong root bridge" thanks to its proximity to the so-called "the cleanest village", named Mawlynnong, however, it is situated near the village of Riwai (pretty clear one too). The bridge is a mere 10-15 minutes walk from the village. Being easy to reach, this place is pretty touristy and you will share the man-made, natural miracle with dozens of mainly Indian tourists. If you plan to visit Double Decker or other bridges, you can skip this one.

Combine the visit to this easy root bridge with a visit to Umgnot, “the cleanest river” in India, near Dawki village. This trip impossible on public transport, it can only be done with Taxi or tourist bus. Price for taxi per full day starts at 2000,- Rs for small Maruti, tourist bus costs 500,- Rs per person. Both are starting and returning to Shillong.

Ritimmen, not the longest, but pretty long root bridge

On the way to Double Decker, you will meet the Ritimmen. Located near Nongthymmai settlement, it is better known as "the long bridge". I would say, the Ritimmen is more spectacular than the Double Decker. Do not miss it. Nongthymmai is a surprisingly neat settlement of beekeepers with clear cement paths and flower gardens.

It takes about an hour from Tyrna, along a seemingly endless trail of steps that plunges deeper and deeper. The views are amazing and stairs are surrounded by pineapples and jack fruits growing wildly amid the jungle of vegetation.

Double Decker Living Root Bridge

From the long bridge, you will need another 60 to 90 minutes to reach the Double Decker root bridge. Crossing Umshiang river, Double Decker is kind of an icon, a "holy grail" of root bridges. Take it slowly and enjoy the scenery. You will reach Nongriat settlement after crossing the long metal bridge over an amazing river valley. The change in elevation between Tyrna and Nongriat is 730 meters.

See more details about the trek and how to reach both Double Decker, the Ritimmen and how to continue to Rainbow falls in a separate section, here: Travel Guide to Meghalaya Root Bridges

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2 More living root bridges

There are a handful of root bridges in the area. The following 2 we did not visit. Perhaps next time

• Ummunoi Root Bridge is a 17-meter long root bridge, one of the oldest known root bridges in the region. Located at Ummunoi river near Siej village, Nongkroh, via Sohsarat village. A starting point for Ummunoi root bridge is Laitkynsew village. While it is only two kilometres one way expect four to five hours return. The descent here is only 1,400 feet (430 meters) which makes it more accessible that Double Decker and still it is said to be a very impressive living bridge.
• Umkar Root Bridge. One more "easy" root bridge located half a kilometre or 15 minutes away from Siej village. Umkar root bridge was partly washed away by flash floods and the villagers in the process of regrowing it. There's also a waterfall by the bridge, but only during the monsoon season.

Is it possible to rent a car in Andaman islands?

(Pavel, Czech Republic, Katarína, Slovakia)

Cars are being rented here with a driver. I have been exploring if it was possible to drive yourself and there is some bureaucratic hurdle to it. As renting a car with driver is an equivalent of taking a taxi, prices are rather high. It makes sense for a one day trips to places like Wandoor (Rs. 1500) or Baratang, where cost will be reasonable. However renting a car for a 3 day trip to e.g. North Andaman will cost some 12-17.000 Rupees, e.g. above 200 USD. And it makes no sense to hurry that trip in 3 days.

Is it Possible to rent a motorbike/scooter in Andaman Islands? Would it be possible to cross from south to north on a motorbike?

(Michaela, Slovakia)

Compared to renting a car, renting a scooter is a breeze in Andamans. We rented them in Havelock, Neil as well as in Little Andaman island. Scooters are also available in Port Blair, however we found no need there. Prices are 350-500 Rupees, depending on the season and demand.

Crossing Andamans South to North sounds like a great Idea for me. The only hurdle is, that you are not allowed to cross the Jarawa Reserve on south Andaman on any “open” vehicle. Thus between PB and Baratang or Rangat, you need to ship your bike or transport it by different vehicle.

What are the diving options in Andaman Islands?

(Iva, Russia, Pavel, Czech Republic)

Well, this is pretty tricky. The thing is, 99% of Andaman visitors are Indian tourists. If they snorkel, they do so in the life west, holding a certified instructor’s hand. See my Wandoor/MG marine Park article. And if they dive, they are very beginners, so from what I have seen, they dived just offshore Havelock, near the jetty. We are certified divers too and we did not find it attractive to dive there.

Saying that, Havelock is the only place with any diving operation. My suggestion is to contact the diving schools there and check if you can get some reasonable dive.

You can also dive at North Bay, near Port Blair. But be prepare that this is just you and 99% Indians. If you find out more, please let me know

How is it with snorkeling in Andaman Islands?

(Surajit, U.A.E.)

In the list of the pain-in-the-ass bureaucratic restriction in Andamans, this one the most painful. De jure, you are only allowed to snorkel with a certified snorkeling instructor. “For safety reasons” you will have to snorkel in a very uncomfortable life west.  As ridiculous as it sounds, it is true. Such instructors are only available at Havelock island and at MG Marine park (Jolly Buoy island). For example, on Havelock’s Elephanta beach, you can officially only snorkel in one place at with the hordes of Indian tourists in orange life vests.

A word towards Andaman administration and Forest department: foreign visitor, who spent time and money reaching Andaman islands will find such limitations ridiculous and unacceptable. Your visitors expect to be able to snorkel as freely, as they can in any other country: Indonesia, Maldives, Thailand, anywhere. Such limitation are unheard of. And, compared to majority of Indians, majority of foreigners know how to swim, thus the life west is of no use. Moreover many foreigners are certified divers. Thus wanting divers to hold instructor hand while snorkeling, is like requiring a certified bus driver to hold your hand when riding a rickshaw.

Further, most of the beaches are either sandy beaches with no reefs or as in Neil snorkeling is difficult, as the sea is shallow for swimming at low tide and reef is far in high tide. Good off-the-shore snorkeling places that we know, sorted by their quality, are:

1. Jolly Buoy (Rs. 1000 instructor + life west) is really amazing.
2. Craggy island
3. Elephanta beach. Good and quiet place is some 500m to the left (facing the sea) from the crowd.
4. The northern end of Lalaji bay beach, Long Island

How good is scuba diving in Andaman?

The pain-in-the-ass bureaucratic restriction in Andamans ruin not only snorkeling but also diving. While you are right to presume Andaman islands must be the paradise for diving, I will give you a pretty different perspective.

Let me shout the truth out: if you are at least a little experienced certified diver, you will be either disappointed or annoyed by diving in the Andaman Islands. The reason for this is Indian (or Andaman) bureaucracy.

Forbidden boat dives

The thing is, it is periodically forbidden to do a boat dives around Havelock Island. This leaves you with only 2 shore dives options in Havelock, one very boring around the jetty and second, the better one, in Elephanta beach. Havelock is one of only 2 places where any diving equipment and instructors are available in Andaman Islands, the second is North Bay near Port Blair. As of October 2019 I got confirmed from local dive shop, tha they are allowed to do a boat dives within a mile from havelock, which is already an improvement. Let us all hope it lasts and regulations are further relaxed.

If you are totally inexperienced and never dived before, you will for sure be amazed by diving in the Andaman Islands. If you are a little experience inquire beforehand if diving from a boat is allowed as shore dives are far from amazing.

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Daily temperatures in Andaman Islands, Lakshadweep Islands and Maldives

Unlike Thailand, Cambodia or Myanmar, where it gets warm already in March (35 ° C or over) and hot in June (40 ° C or more), weather on the islands is much more pleasant. On Andamans, for example, the temperature does never rise significantly above 32 ° C.

Transport and accommodation availability in Andaman Islands, Lakshadweep Islands and Maldives

Drawback of visiting Lakshadweep during rainy season is, that many resorts are closed and less transport  options are available. Similar for Andaman hot spots, Havelock and Neil Islands, some accommodations will close for off-season and transport connection will be less frequent. For Lakshadweep this may discourage from going. As for Andamans and Maldives, I would still go even off season.

Sea Sickness

There is no way to avoid sailing while on Andamans, Maledives or Lakshadweep, thus take motion sickness pills from home country or buy them in locally. (Drugs are ten times cheaper in India then in Europe.) Me and my wife, we suffer from motion sickness easily and we can honestly say, that sailing in those archipelagos was quite bad, but we survived. When the ship begins to swing, assume horizontal position quickly.

Conclusion

If you can visit during proper season, do so. Sunny weather and peaceful seas make sense. However feel free to visit Maledives or Andamans, even during the rainy season or hot summer. Yes, it will likely rain every day, but it does not rain all the day. Most of the time the rain comes in one or two  brief, but intensive, showers a day.

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Free visa to Jordan

Most of the travel blogs covering topic of Jordanian visas will recommend you to purchase the Jordan Pass. It is the second best option available. The best is to get the visa completely free. How? There are two options:

One option is available for groups of 5 or more people who use the services of domestic Jordanian travel agency. Such visitors are eligible for free visa to Jordan. As we were group of 4, we did not explore this option further.

You get Jordanian visa for free if you visit Aqaba special economic zone. If you fly info Aqaba airport, reach Aqaba port by ship from Egypt or enter overland from Israel, you get Jordanian visa, on arrival, for free.

Get free visa to Jordan outside Aqaba

Only very few people know, that you are eligible for free Aqaba visa, even if you enter the country thru border crossing other than Aqaba. We tested it at Queen Alia international airport, Amman and it really works. You need to do two things:

1)     Tell the immigration guys you are heading to Aqaba and request free Aqaba visa. Support your prove with hotel reservation in Aqaba.

2)     You are then supposed to reach Aqaba within 2 days and register Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority (Airport street, Aqaba).

Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority (Address: Airport street, Aqaba). The immigration department is located at the "B" floor (minus 1 floor) of the building "B". Bring your passports and they will fill in departure cards, which you are supposed to show when departing from Jordan.In theory, if you not have these cards, you are supposed to pay the price of the visa plus a fine of 1,5JD per day. Well, in practice, nobody was interested in our Aqaba departure cards while we were leaving Jordan via Queen Alia airport.

Print or save the card below. It is the backside of the departure card, stating clearly the rights to free visa to Aqaba visitor, regardless of the entry point to Jordan.

Jordan Pass or free visa to Jordan?

Jordan pass is a visum plus entry ticker to multiple historical highlights of the kingdom, including Petra. When is Jordn pass better value then a free Jordan visa? Mathematcs is simple here: 

Jordan visa  costs 40JD, entry fee to Petra for 2 days costs 55JD. Jordan explorer pass costs 75JD and contains the visa, the 2 days Petra entry and includes also entry permits to handful of othe Jordanian historical and natural sites.

• If you do not visit Petra, skip the Jordan Pass
• If you do not visit Aqaba and you do visit Petra, the  Jordan Pass is definitely worth it
• If you visit only Petra, Jordan Pass will save you 20JD, if you visit Petra and Wadi Rum Jordan pass will save you 25JD. Free visa saves 40JD.
• Jordan pass starts to make sense (vis-a-vis the free visa) if you add Jerash and some of the castles into your itinerary, on a top of a "must see" Petra and Wadi Rum

Do not buy Jordan pass to children below age 12. The get all the entries for free. 

2^nd option - Maldives amazing underwater life

An alternative, that is worth the little extra cost, is to visit South Ari atoll, for example Dhigurah island. Prices here start from 50€ already breakfast included. We visited this island in 2014, when there was just one accommodation provider. Today there is a choice of 6 hotels and private accommodations.

The reason why you want to go for South Ari atoll is its underwater life. Here you will meet the Whale shark. Diving or snorkeling with this giant creature is a lifetime experience. And have no worries ? this 4-5 meter long guy is pure vegetarian.

In addition to Whale sharks, South Ari atoll is also good place to meet giant Mata rays. Sea currents ensure abundance of plankton here, thus big plankton eaters are easily met here.

Counting the costs (couple, 7 nights, 3 meals a day)

Per person:
Flight 400€
Local transport 40€
Accommodation 7x31=217€
Food 7x (10+10, lunch and dinner) = 140€
All together 797€

Dhigurah’s lunches and dinners are bit more expensive due to less competition, but there is an option to eat more simple and cheaper with locals. Breakfast is included in accommodation price. For snorkeling and diving boat trips budget some extra cash.

Thus 797 Euro per person, per week, for transport, accommodation and food. Maldives, next to best diving and snorkeling spots to meet Whale sharks and Manta rays.

Maldives vs. Andaman or Lakshadweep

Maldives Advantages: They are near and have a great underwater world

Maldives Disadvantages: Maldives islets are small and a little boring, dull

The best advantage Maldives compared to the other two is their easy reach-ability. Direct flights from Dubai and other Gulf airports, as well as from most European capitals mean, that with one transfer maximum, you reach paradise of Maldives within a few hours. Of course, in those few hours you are only on Hulhule, the main “airstrip” island, from where you have to continue further. In any case, the Maldives are most accessible, not being geographically close to Europe, but also time-wise and in terms of the cost of traveling there. You can choose Maldives to relax for a week and you will spend minimum time traveling and maximum time enjoying. Great.

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Conclusion

Lakshadweep and Maldives are both archipelagos of tiny islands and islets. Diving and snorkeling are great on both, however outside of watersports, there is not much to do.

Andaman islands are beautifully diverse. On the top of Andaman underwater beauties, you can enjoy here jungles, mangroves, turtles, waterfalls, historical treasures and with a bit of luck, even see their original inhabitants.

3-4 days are enough for one of the Lakshadweep islands, a week or 10 days for 2-3 of the Maldives and 3 weeks are not enough for Andamans.

Happy journey.

The Panchyat Guesthouse in Campbell Bay

If the IP&T will be full, you will end up in the fourth guest house, also run by the Panchyat.  The Panchyat Guesthouse in Campbell Bay has Non-Ac private rooms with common toilets. It looks a bit like a prison. While this is the least liked option in town it still has two advantages. First, they cook food and second, they have a plenty of rooms and thus a good chance that you do no end up sleeping in the street.

Transport and getting around the Great Nicobar Island

Tuk-tuks, cars, busses and motorbikes exist in the Great Nicobar islands. Yep, they exist, but are they available for visitors?

Auto-rickshaws in the Great Nicobar Island

There are about 30 auto-rickshaws in Campbell bay, many of them have fixed arrangement, ferrying kids to and from schools and government official between their work and homes. The trip from the jetty down-town will cost 50 Rs, short trips within town go at 30-40 Rs. Tuk-tuks are practical and economical way of getting around the town, but there is many of them. You may spend a long time waiting for one to pass by, so it is wise to note down a phone number or two of the driver and get picked up when needed.

Buses in the Great Nicobar Island

A few buses ply the roads on the Great Nicobar Island. There are two routes. The north to south route bus goes from Campbell Bay via Joginder Nagar, Vijay Nagar, Laxmi Nagar and Gandhi Nagar all the way down to the southernmost village of India, the Shastri Nagar. There are 4 departures daily and the journey takes 1.5 hours. Second route is short Campbell Bay to Govind Nagar trip, practical for visiting the Great Nicobar Biosphere Reserve.

Renting a car, bicycle or motorbike in the Great Nicobar Island

As there is no tourism infrastructure, there is no official car or motorbike rent. However, if you ask around, someone will be willing to rent you his bike or take you o a day trip in a car.

Is there electricity, mobile signal and internet on the Nicobar Islands?

Indeed it is. All of those modern world things are available in Campbell Bay.  Most of the inhabited areas of Great Nicobar have electricity supply 24/7 and BSNL Mobile signal for communication. BSNL 3G Internet is available here and there is even a Cyber Cafe in Campbell Bay. Expect poor speed and patchy connection. In the first half of the 2020, the internet was barely adequate for checking email or text messages. Good news is that the undersea optical cable has already reached Campbell Bay and the place will offer world class internet before the Covid-19 pandemic is over and you are able to visit this friendly island.

Food and restaurants in the Great Nicobar Island

There is only one restaurant with bakery and we noted 2 small eateries around Campbell Bay. APWD, Panchyat guesthouses will cook meals three times a day for their guests. However outsider are not served in APWD. In the evening one or two small eateries serve hot samosas around the zero kilometer roundabout.

Suruchi restaurant

Clean, family run, Suruchi restaurant is the only "restaurant" on the island and we must admit they cook great food. Suruchi is open from early morning time till late evening, serving tasty breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Both Indian and continental dishes are available here and to our pleasure, they were both willing and able to prepare tasty Indian dishes without their hot and spicy ingredients. I had the best paneer masala here in the whole India here. They also bake lovely sweets in Suruchi.

Mr. Sima eatery

The small eatery run by friendly Mr. Sima just in front of the IP&T Guesthouse. Honestly the place looks like those places I would never enter for having a food. Dark inside shack with walls from corrugated iron sheets. Cows graze the nearby land plot and cow dung is everywhere, mixed with roaming cats and dogs. You need to cross stinky open waste canal that flows just in front of the Mr. Sima's eatery. 2 crabs live under the channel bridge. However, Sima is a skillful cook and his place is full during morning noon and dinner times. It is easy to fill the place. There is just one table with 6-8 people sitting capacity. Only Indian food is served by Mr. Soma. We ate there our breakfasts almost every day and were fine, digestion wise.

Is there electricity, mobile signal and internet on the Nicobar Islands?

Indeed it is. All of those modern world things are available in Campbell Bay.  Most of the inhabited areas of Great Nicobar have electricity supply 24/7 and BSNL Mobile signal for communication. BSNL 3G Internet is available here and there is even a Cyber Cafe in Campbell Bay. Expect poor speed and patchy connection. In the first half of the 2020, the internet was barely adequate for checking email or text messages. Good news is that the undersea optical cable has already reached Campbell Bay and the place will offer world class internet before the Covid-19 pandemic is over and you are able to visit this friendly island.

Food and prices in the Nicobar Islands

While Campbell Bay only boost the population of 5-6000 inhabitants, the geopolitical importance of Great Andaman island for India is tremendous. Island is supplied regularly by boats from Port Blair. MRP, the maximum retail price, is observed here as anywhere in India, Thus packaged goods are sold at the same price as in the mainland, which is great. However. Local businesses that need to adhere to MRP in this remote place make litle to no profit on selling MRP regulated goods, thus stock are low and the place often runs out of supplies. Such a ubuquitos thing like your Coke or Sprite may not be available At the time of our visit the bottled water was not available at all. We needed to fill our bottles with filtered water every morning.

Sea Sickness

Me and my wife, we suffer from motion sickness easily and we can honestly say, that sailing in Andamans was quite bad, but we survived. The 2 days journey will however test your abilities, thus take motion sickness pills from home country or buy them in India. When the ship begins to swing, assume horizontal position quickly. If you do feel sick, please remember there is a doctor aboard every ship and he (or she) will help you. 

Updates on Nicobar Islands

The topic of Nicobar Islands opening is so new, that we can all expects frequent updates and more information coming in.

Subscribe for updates in the comment section below and we'll follow the development and make sure you are well informed.

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