How to get to Rainbow falls.

After reaching Nongriat, you have a choice of going back to Tyrna (which would be a pity) or going to Rainbow Falls and back (which for most people maybe be too much for one day) or staying for the night (which is the right thing to do). Sleep well and with energy recharged, head to Rainbow falls. Journey to Rainbow Falls is amazing, beautiful and thrilling in some parts. You will need to overcome Mawsaw steel bridge, hanging over the river valley, encounter a few root bridges on the way and splash in the natural pool before you hit the scenic waterfall.

[ For facts and figures on how to reach Nongriat, please check our Meghalaya Guide Book here]

Trek from Nongriat to Rainbow falls and back is different and somehow more difficult than the Tyrna – Nongriat part. The first thing, that makes the trek more difficult is, that the path is not “paved” by firm stairs, as the Tyrna – Nongiat sidewalk is. While the path is clearly visible and there is no need for a guide, it may be muddy and slippery in parts, especially after the rain. The second thing makes it easier. To get to Rainbow falls, you do not need to overcome huge elevation differences. The trek is slightly uphill, but not steep.

If you do not have the full day to go to Rainbow Falls, but you have some spare hour or two, just walk some 30 minutes from Nongriat to Mawsaw steel bridge and enjoy the thrill and scenery crossing it.

Accommodation and food

Tyrna is the last point where cars and small trucks can reach. Therefore it is the last point to grab a few snacks or water bottles. However, Tyrna itself is pretty small and remote village. You better take supplies from Cherapunjee or Shillong.

There a few snack stalls along the stairway, selling tea, biscuits and occasionally a pineapple. Some of the tea shacks offer a million dollar view down the valley. The only place to get any warm, cooked food, is in your accommodation. Be prepared for the food to be simple. Best food is served at Serene Home-stay.

Nongriat

Nongriat is the only village with any accommodation options on this trek. There are only 4 or 5 small home-stays in the village. The capacity of those 4-5 places is limited. The worst thing that can happen to you is that all are full and you need to climb back the same day, to sleep in Tyrna. I do not think this happens often and I strongly believe locals will go out of their way to accommodate you, but still, it can happen. Please be realistic in expectations and book your home-stay ahead.

[If you like this article, check also 3 Things To Know Before You Visit Meghalaya Root Bridges]

How fit do I need to be to trek to Rainbow falls?

We have managed the trek with 2 children, 2 and 6 years old! That is the best way to answer this question. Saying so, I must admit that the trek is quite difficult. Take your time and do not rush it.

Budget for 2 nights in Nongriat, that will give you time for the rest and you will be fine. Day 1 you arrive from Shillong, trek down to Nongriat to stay there. On the second day you trek to Rainbow falls and back to Nongriat for your second night. On the third day, climb back to Tyrna and head back to Shillong or wherever you might be heading next.

If you have a problem with your knees, I would advise against trekking in this steep area. Visit a tall building and try to walk to 20^th floor and back by stairs 10 times and see how your knee reacts.

What is the best time to visit Rainbow falls in Meghalaya?

Meghalaya is one of few place, where visiting in rainy season makes a lot of sense. My opinion is that you can visit anytime, rainy or dry season, each has advantages and disadvantages. The ideal time is just as the monsoon ended. Rivers are still full of water but it is not raining that much.

We have visited Rainbow falls in dry season. The advantage of the dry season is, obviously, dry terrain and easier trekking. However the disadvantage is that rivers go almost dry and waterfalls shrink to a trickle. Obviously the advantage of visiting during or shortly after rains is that the waterfalls will be majestic and river crossing thrilling. However, trekking to places like Rainbow Waterfall will be very muddy and slippery.

Take care ?

Getting to Meghalaya living root bridges - The usual way.

First by air to Assam or Meghalaya

All Indian airlines connect multiple Indian cities with the capital of Assam, the city of Guwahati. Flight are frequent, competition high and prices low. There is also a “Shillong airport”, at the village of Umroi, some 1-hour drive from the Shillong itself. This is a small airport with the less frequent connection. Check the price and timing of flights to Shillong, if nothing reasonable is found, fly to Guwahati. Meghalaya Transport Corporation (M.T.C.) runs a bus from Umroi Airport to town. It costs 100,- RS per person. Make sure you catch it, the taxi cost would be ruinous.

From Guwahati airport to Shillong by bus or taxi.

From Guwahati airport, you have multiple options. Best is to ask around the parking lot to see if there are shared taxis, jeeps directly to Shillong. This is your fastest bet, it will take anywhere from 3,5 to 5 hours to reach Shillong.

The second best option is the direct M.T.C. bus between Shillong and Meghalaya Airport. It departs Shillong at 6:30 a.m. and 9 a.m. and departs Guwahati airport at 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. The fare is Rs. 250,-

Alternatively take an airport bus to the Guwahati bus station in the city centre, from where you can take either bus or shared taxi to Shillong. Obviously, the bus will be cheaper and less convenient. For the taxi, prepare to pay 350-500 Rs per person, depending on the car and number of sharing passengers.

One option, which sounds pretty good to me, is using the Meghalaya Helicopter service. Price is acceptable: 1500 Rs per passenger, one way. Choppers land near the Shillong city, e.g. not at the distant airport and the flight duration is 30 minutes only.

From Shillong  via Cherapunjee to Tyrna (for Double Decker living root bridge) by Bus

Once you got used to the fact, that things like transport are cheap in India, you will face painful truth in Meghalaya. Transport is cheap only if you move between populated places together with other local inhabitants. Meghalaya is mountainous and sparsely populates the state of India and you are heading where mostly tourists and not locals go. You will need a taxi. Prepare a thicker wallet.

Public bus and shared jeeps travel in Meghalaya

There should be a bus between Shillong and Cherapunjee (Sohra). This bus is not run by M.T.C. We heard it is cheap, mostly crowded, infrequent and it leaves early morning from the Police Bazar (that is how the city center is called here). Ask at M.T.C. bus station what the departure times are and check around if any shared taxis may be available. At the time of our visit, they were not. If you travel on a very tight budget or you are alone and a taxi would be out of your budget, take the bus to Cherapunjee.

However there are shared jeeps from Shillong to Cherra Punjee, then to Tyrna and vice versa. Direct shared jeeps from Shillong to Tyrna leaves at 2:00 -2:30 PM from the 1st parking lot (Bara bazaar) and Tyrna to Shillong at 7:00 AM and 1:00 PM.

Meghalaya Tourist bus

The alternative to the local bus would be a tour bus run by Meghalaya Tourism Development Corporation. They run a day trip from Shillong towards Cherapunjee, stopping at main tourist points like caves and waterfall. This tour returns back to Shillong, however you may get off at Cherapunjee and continue further on to Tyrna. Price is 350,- Rs per person which makes a lot of sense compared to a taxi.

Once you reach Cherapunjee, your choices will be similarly limited. There will be a transport once or twice a day going to Tyrna or passing by, that can drop you at Tyrna or at a nearby crossing, from where you could walk. However, it is very likely that you will need a Taxi from Cherapunjee to Tyrna.

Travel from Shillong via Cherapunjee and Tyrna (for Double Decker) by Taxi

Taking a taxi is expensive, but makes a lot of sense. Similar to the tourist bus, a taxi driver will stop for you at most of the interesting points en route. A taxi will also cost from 2000,- Rs per day. Saying that, please think twice before you decide to do Double Decker as a one day trip from Shillong. Count on a minimum of 2.5 hours nonstop driving time there and another 2.5 hours back. Then you need time to descend those 3700 steps from Tyrna to Nongriat (where the Double Decker is) and time to climb them back. When will you enjoy the bridges and scenery? Do not do it and read on:

Planning and timing your visit to Double Decker living root bridge

Let me offer you 2-3 reasonable alternatives on how not to exhaust yourself and enjoy what you came for to the fullest.

Option 1. We did it this way.

Day 1. Take a taxi from Shillong to Tyrna, making a stop or two on the way. Reaching Tyrna, get something to eat and start descending to the valley. Stop at the amazing “Long bridge” en route. You will reach Nongriat later in the afternoon, check the Double Decker and overnight in Nongriat.

Day 2. Do not go back! Spend the next day fully in Khasi hills. Trek from Nongriat to the Rainbow Falls. This trek is even more amazing than the one you did a day before. Return to Nongriat to spend the second night there.

Day 3. Climb up back to Tyrna. You’ll already know how amazing the Long bridge is, thus you will visit it again. Arrange your taxi driver to wait for you in Tyrna around 2 pm and return to Shillong by evening, making a stop or two if you have any energy left.

The only disadvantage of this option is the high cost of paying 2 x 2000 Rs for the taxi.

Option 2.

If you want and can reach Cherapunjee cheaply by bus from Shillong, then do so. If there is a chance to also reach Tyrna on the same day, do so. Tyrna is only 30 minutes by car from Cherapunjee, however, transport is very infrequent. If you overnight in Cherapunjee or Tyrna you will have more time to spend in the hills, compared to starting your day in Shillong. For the rest of the plan, follow the option 1.

My suggestion here is to contact one or two accommodations in both Cherapunjee and Tyrna and check what the latest transport options are on the Tyrna - Cherapunjee - Shillong route.

Accommodation and food around Meghalaya living root bridges

Tyrna is the last point where cars and small trucks can reach. Therefore it is the last point to grab any last minute supplies. Tyrna itself is a pretty small and remote village, therefore you are better off to take supplies from Shillong or Cherapunjee.

There a few snack stalls along the way, selling tea, biscuits and occasionally a pineapple. Cooked food you can get in your accommodation and be prepared for the food to be simple. The best food is served at Serene Homestay.

Nongriat is the only village with any accommodation options on this trek. There are 4 or 5 small homestays in the village. Please be realistic in expectations and book your homestay ahead. The capacity of those 4-5 places is limited. The worst thing that can happen to you is that all are full and you need to climb back the same day, to sleep in Tyrna. I do not think this happens often and I strongly believe locals will go out of their way to accommodate you, but still, it can happen.

On the other hand, some accommodations we have seen, do not have a permanent “reception”, just a phone number hanging on the doors. The owner may not be nearby, thus calling ahead makes a lot of sense.

How fit do I need to be to trek to Double Decker living root bridge?

The best way to answer this question is to tell you that we managed the trek with 2 children, aged 2 and 6! Saying so, I must admit that the trek is difficult. You are descending 3500 stairs and climbing them back, overcoming a few hundred meters of elevation. Take your time and do not rush it. As I mentioned above, budget for 2 nights in Nongriat, that will give you time for the rest and you will be fine.

There is only one case, where I would advise against trekking to Nongriat. If you have a problem with your knees, think twice before you go. Visit a tall building and try to walk to 20^th floor and back by stairs 10 times and see how your knee reacts.

What are living root bridges?

Tribes living in the Khasi hills, near the border of the Indian state of Meghalaya and Bangladesh, live in steeply sloped hills, intersected by river streams that have created deep, often narrow valleys. For rural connectivity in this vertical landscape, bridges are essential.

During the monsoon season in Meghalaya, rainwater gushes through the deep gorges of Khasi Hills and the tribes, who inhabit these hills, have developed an exceptional relationship with the forest. Long before the arrival of modern construction materials, the Khasi devised a nature-friendly way to link isolated villages.

Two Ficus elastica trees are planted at the opposite sides of the river. Over the following years, the Khasi slowly thread tree roots across the river to connect the gap, often using a temporary bamboo scaffolding. Once the roots connect, they grow stronger and stronger. The living root bridge is able to support a crossing human within 15 to 30 years. Bridges then live for a century or even longer.

Wooden bridges would be washed away by flooded rivers. Metal bridges would corrode quickly in this humid environment. Unlike modern materials, root bridges grow stronger and more resilient over time.

For a detailed guide on how to reach the bridges click here Transport and Treks to living root bridges

Mawlynnong, the living root bridge easy to reach

Whenever you read about Meghalaya root bridges, you will realise, that trekking to most of the root bridges requires strength and energy. The Mawlynnong root bridge is the ideal alternative for anyone who wants to take it easy. This root bridge is often referred to as "Mawlynnong root bridge" thanks to its proximity to the so-called "the cleanest village", named Mawlynnong, however, it is situated near the village of Riwai (pretty clear one too). The bridge is a mere 10-15 minutes walk from the village. Being easy to reach, this place is pretty touristy and you will share the man-made, natural miracle with dozens of mainly Indian tourists. If you plan to visit Double Decker or other bridges, you can skip this one.

Combine the visit to this easy root bridge with a visit to Umgnot, “the cleanest river” in India, near Dawki village. This trip impossible on public transport, it can only be done with Taxi or tourist bus. Price for taxi per full day starts at 2000,- Rs for small Maruti, tourist bus costs 500,- Rs per person. Both are starting and returning to Shillong.

Ritimmen, not the longest, but pretty long root bridge

On the way to Double Decker, you will meet the Ritimmen. Located near Nongthymmai settlement, it is better known as "the long bridge". I would say, the Ritimmen is more spectacular than the Double Decker. Do not miss it. Nongthymmai is a surprisingly neat settlement of beekeepers with clear cement paths and flower gardens.

It takes about an hour from Tyrna, along a seemingly endless trail of steps that plunges deeper and deeper. The views are amazing and stairs are surrounded by pineapples and jack fruits growing wildly amid the jungle of vegetation.

Double Decker Living Root Bridge

From the long bridge, you will need another 60 to 90 minutes to reach the Double Decker root bridge. Crossing Umshiang river, Double Decker is kind of an icon, a "holy grail" of root bridges. Take it slowly and enjoy the scenery. You will reach Nongriat settlement after crossing the long metal bridge over an amazing river valley. The change in elevation between Tyrna and Nongriat is 730 meters.

See more details about the trek and how to reach both Double Decker, the Ritimmen and how to continue to Rainbow falls in a separate section, here: Travel Guide to Meghalaya Root Bridges

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2 More living root bridges

There are a handful of root bridges in the area. The following 2 we did not visit. Perhaps next time

• Ummunoi Root Bridge is a 17-meter long root bridge, one of the oldest known root bridges in the region. Located at Ummunoi river near Siej village, Nongkroh, via Sohsarat village. A starting point for Ummunoi root bridge is Laitkynsew village. While it is only two kilometres one way expect four to five hours return. The descent here is only 1,400 feet (430 meters) which makes it more accessible that Double Decker and still it is said to be a very impressive living bridge.
• Umkar Root Bridge. One more "easy" root bridge located half a kilometre or 15 minutes away from Siej village. Umkar root bridge was partly washed away by flash floods and the villagers in the process of regrowing it. There's also a waterfall by the bridge, but only during the monsoon season.